| Product Features |
|
| Size |
|
| Receiving your Mysids |
|
| Media |
|
| Tank | For 1000 shrimp a tank of 80 gallons or more would be good, but most important is surface area since they live predominantly at the bottom. That's the problem with regular tanks is that they are usually deeper then they are wide. Nice tanks to use would tend to be shallow and wide, 3-4 inches deep. Substrate is up to the individual, I don't use any in the tanks because it makes cleaning and removing the animals harder. If you care to use any, a fine crushed coral works. If you go with bare bottom tanks, keep as much crushed coral in the filter for buffering reasons |
| Feeding | Mysids are highly carnivorous and feed on many types of
zooplankton. Our Roti-Feast
product is an excellent feed for them and so are newly hatched Artemia
and/or live rotifers. If feeding Artemia, hatch out .5 grams
for a morning feeding and .5 grams for an evening feeding. If
feeding rotifers we suggest about 400 rotifer per day for each shrimp. Mysid shrimp are very cannibalistic so if they are not fed every day they will consume each other. |
| Life Span | Estimated 6-8 months, but being that you have a dense population the weak ones are going to be picked off. |
| Spawning | Estimated cycle of every 10-14 days if the environmental conditions are favorable. The embryos develop in a brood pouch and are released when the female molts. This is where the common name opossum shrimp comes from. |
| Eggs? | No - free swimming juveniles. |
| Aeration | Sponge filters work well. They also create more surface area. |
| Separating Adults from Babies | The easiest way to separate the young from adults is by using a 2000 micron sieve (2mm screen). The adult mysids will remain on the screen and the young will pass through. Fiberglass mosquito screen is 2mm and very inexpensive. |
